Carol’s India Blog

I hope it brings health and contentment.

Thank goodness Christmas is over, only New Year to get through, I don’t think I could survive here without my ipod (thanks to my great kids) and I hope it has Auld Lang Syne on it. Once that’s over I can get down to the job. Actually there doesn’t seem to be much of a job and I am still not sure why I am here. I feel a bit like a trophy wife with none of the riches or maybe a captive performing monkey. They are planning on taking me on family trips with them which is a bit too cosy for an employee /boss relationship.

I am working for an organisation called Janajagarana, who operate a tiny eye- health centre across the dirt track from where I live. Here ere they carryout basic eye care, eye tests, dispense glasses, refer more serious problems to the nearest eye hospital etc. Field workers go around remote villages and communities undertaking basic eye care – lots of problems here with eyes. There is also an education function and 2 staff who teach blind/partially sighted people basic skills, and go around the village schools, supporting the class teachers with blind/partially sighted children. I noticed ‘being able to use local river or pond for washing ‘ was one of their goals. Makes you think doesn’t it – how do you use a cane to find your way across the rice fields. All good stuff, but they do need some organising,

‘So what do they want you for then’ I hear Jim O saying! What indeed, hopefully all will become clear? I have not come all this way, lost my front tooth, eaten bucketloads of dal, been eaten alive by insects and got a dodgy tummy and most probably my own personal parasite just to sit around the house all day. I could have done that at home!

Everywhere I have been in India, so far, I have found friendly, helpful people – but its always men who strike up conversations (I don’t mean in a creepy way) The women just don’t really say much so difficult to find out about their lives. In this town most people have never seen a westerner so when I go out people follow me and stare. They come up and touch me but ‘sir’ always shoos them away so I don’t get chance to talk. I have been asked for my autograph several times! I wonder who they think I am. If I smile at the women and children or say hello, they burst into fits of giggles. One of the teachers asked me if everyone in my country was white like me. (Not many quite as white as me actually,) I explained about Britain being multicultural, with people of all colours and beliefs, she could not understand why and how it came to be like that. Totally different from the people I met in Delhi who all seemed to have relatives living in Wolverhampton or where ever. When I tell people I am from Scotland they either look blank or smile and nod and say ‘Braveheart’. Goodness only knows what image they have of the Scots. The photos I have up in my kitchen of my sons in kilts (at a wedding) only reinforces this image. So I on Wednesday its out with the Scottish flag that Phil put in my bag as I left and a toast to the clan back home. Cheers!

Out of India

Not been able to write my blog as I have been in transit, but did achieve my objective!  Took  the overnight train from Ranchi to Bubaneshwar, accompanied by 5 experienced volunteers who very kindly helped me with my luggage, I brought far too much! Spent the day with Canadian Sarah, in another chaotic city where Sarah decided to get her hair cut. She was uneasy about this as almost all Indian women have long hair but as we entered the smart, Western style saloon with up to date Indian versions of Company, Vogue etc it looked promising. A short time later after the ‘stylist’ had hacked at her hair with what looked like a pair of blunt kitchen scissors, Sarah shouted ‘Nahin’ snatched the scissors off him and was not best pleased. I thought it didn’t look too bad, but declined to have mine cut.

The journey to Berhampur was not good I started to feel sick after about an hour or so and by the time I arrived, I was feeling very queasy. As the porter lifted my very heavy bags onto his head and staggered off up the stairs, I was very tempted to ask him to carry me as well. Bizarre meeting with new people as I was taken to an office somewhere and left to sit in a bare room for about an hour until the boss’ husband arrived to collect me. Felt so bad I didn’t care, and the journey along the bumpy pothole filled road in the intense (its actually winter here!) heat didn’t do much for my stomach but miraculously I managed to arrive without being sick!

My first impressions of where I am to spend the next year of my life? On the positive side I have 2 rooms, a flushing western style toilet and cold shower for my exclusive use, I have a bed, a plastic garden chair and a very small table. It seems clean and no evidence of rats on the inside. There is a small yard with a very, deep well, and a washing line. On the negative side the accommodation is part of my boss’ house (they have given up half their home for me) and to get out of the house I have to go though the old bedridden mother’s room. There is a maid (Fatima) who sweeps up, makes food and will do my washing in the river.I find the maid quite unnerving as she seems to move without touching the floor and makes no sound what so ever, and she keeps appearing from nowhere! The director and her husband are very kind and are trying very hard to make me feel welcome but will not allow me to go out alon. I feel as if I have been kidnapped and imprisoned in a strange land. Worse still I am trapped in a mosquito-infested village in the middle of nowhere, where no one speaks English! I asked to go to bed as I was not feeling well but they insisted I come and sit with them and kept giving me food – not a good night!

It’s difficult to find words to describe rural India – this is something else! The countryside here is beautiful, and there are hills and mountains in the distance. But it is so crowded. Everywhere there are people, walking along the roads, working in the fields, bathing and washing in smelly ponds, living in tiny houses with straw roofs, cooking on open fires – thousands of them. There are men and boys herding pigs, goats and water buffalo along the road where buses whiz past at frightening speeds. Men driving ox carts, ploughing with wooden ploughs, winnowing and threshing crops by hand and all this goes on alongside mobile phones, mobile phone masts and adverts for the Internet providers. The women, as usual, look very dignified and serene in their colourful saris, but unlike the cities, many men wear traditional dress, which seems to be basically a piece of cloth.

The next day my boss and husband demand my presence in the ‘Sight savers’ jeep. True to form they gave me no clue as to where we were going and for what purpose. When we arrived it was the birthday of the director of another very large NGO, and I was given a posy of flowers to hand over as gift. (More flowers than at Princess Di’s funeral.) We sat in his living room where he held court to a continuous stream of villagers bringing gifts and touching his feet – got the feeling he is a very powerful member of the community – I know it’s a cultural thing but I found the whole experience quite disturbing. I was glad when we left.

After lunch (more rice and dhal) we went to my new office, on the road to nowhere; and met my new colleagues  – several water buffalo.  I just hope they behave themselves, as their horns are pretty fearsome. The office is bare apart from some books and documents, table and chair, and a telephone (and hence Internet connection) which is not working – but there is a lovely view from the roof. One of the rooms is taken up with a deep well and this was put forward as a plus – I do not have to go outside to draw water. I kept my own council but decide there is no way on this earth I am working here on my own with no colleagues, even if the buffaloes are friendly I don’t feel safe. I spent the afternoon sitting in the shade with a migraine while they played around with the phone connection. It was pitch dark when we came out and the sky was full of huge bats – hope they are eating some of those mossies that have now come to dominate my life, and my body.

Christmas

I asked to go to Berhampur to spend Christmas with another volunteer but boss was not keen, however their son took ill and they had to take him to the clinic so agreed to take me too. I had already played the ‘Christmas being our main religion festival’ card and that also seemed to sway them. Anna has a very nice apartment, has made friends and loves it here. Spent Christmas Eve eating at local café (there are no cafes in my village) and next day up early to open present. Anna has been here for 5 months so her work colleagues bought her a present – an imitation crystal plastic clock in the shape of a mermaid. The mermaid’s tail lights up – delightful!

 We both  miss home and family very much, so went shopping, which I find is always a good plan when you feel down. Anna has made some good contacts here and took me to meet a very influential businessman who seems to own half this city including a computer/ mobile phone business. After 2/3 hours of chatting and drinking tea I have a modem and should be able to communicate with the outside world. I also have a useful contact in town.

 It was wonderful to chat to everyone at Christmas and I can’t express how much it meant to hear everyone’s voice, and get all the messages and texts from home – really made my Christmas.

Anna made Christmas dinner – veg curry, rice etc and bread and butter pud,  no crackers or party hats but good food and good company. We spent the rest of the day at the beach festival and I cant believe I spent Christmas day at the Bay of Bengal watching the waves crash on the beach. The festival had tribal dancing, music, and lots of stalls selling food and crafts. When we got the bus home, crammed in like sardines with lots more passengers hanging on the outside, one of our fellow travellers struck up a conversation. He spoke very good English and was shocked that we were out after dark without a male escort. He insisted on walking us to our front door. And has promised to invite us to his house to meet his wife and family,  Very different Christmas!

India is such a fascinating country and I still can’t believe I am here! Yesterday I said goodbye to Delhi, and all the delights of the big city – a last visit to Lodi gardens (where I too refuse to lay on the grass to attract the vultures that circle over head – that’s for Bill) and a last meal at Goulabs café. We boarded the overnight Rajhandani Express to Ranchi, a journey of 19 hours in 3^rd class accommodation – oh great! Watching the scenes on the platform you half expect a steam train to pull in, as the porters run up and down with several suitcases on their heads or large carts loaded up with luggage. The journey turned out to be quite fun! Our travelling companions were a priest and a finance officer for World Education in India, so we got some useful advise about funding options for the organisations we are going to and some information about the problems for Christians on Orissa.   We were constantly fed (with the usual rice, al, roti and vegetables) and watered until about 9pm when everyone settled down for the night. My position in the middle of the 3 bunks was a bit squashed, and as the night worn on it became quite cold. With the cold, the constant snoring and coughing of half the carriage (about 60/70 people) I slept badly. However when the sun came up and I could look out the window at the villages, the rice paddy fields and the people going about their daily business I felt quite elated. Rural India!

We eventually arrived safe and sound in Ranchi, where I could hardly lift my rucksack or my suitcase and decided I am too old for all this. What am I doing here I ask myself daily! However some comfort at last – we are staying in a hotel!!!  It seems very posh compared to our digs back in Dehli, and we have a great shower, a TV, minibar (no alcohol) and free shampoo etc. Oh bliss – I just want to stay in my room and not bother with the conference.  We have been out for lunch – very dodgy looking café – being with all the 20something volunteers, who have backpacked their way around half the world has expanded my horizons. They have so much confidence and go places I would never dream of venturing into.  However they seem impressed by my spirit of adventure saying their parents would never leave their comfortable lives to come and do this – very sensible parents they have – I must be mad!   I miss everything about home, as well as my family. I miss my Friday nights with my pals, all my friends, some very special work mates and my museums! 

After 3 days at the conference, it’s back on the train, arriving at my placement and my new home on Monday. The main objective of this conference for me is to find another volunteer who is close enough to spend Christmas with – I do not want to be a ‘Nora Nae Mates’ 

Been an uneventful week here in smelly Delhi, although there were some interesting diversions from the language classes. A visit to a filthy market – after about half an hour I felt so grubby and itchy I had to come back to my digs and have a shower. It was a bit difficult underfoot as there were all sorts of unknown substances waiting for the unwary pedestrian to step into and maybe even slip on (given my track record of falling over I did not want to risk it). I didn’t buy anything! The goats’ heads complete with fur and lolling tongues, piled up on stalls were also a bit off putting. An experience but possibly one I could have done without!

This being 60 years since the Declaration of Human Rights the ‘Indian Islamic Centre’ (2 mins walk from here) was showing a programme of films. They have excellent facilities at the centre including clean toilets (I have become obsessed) and a big auditorium with very comfy cinema seats so decided to go and see some films. The only thing missing was the popcorn. I saw 2 very good films. One about three people attempting to become musicians in Angola, and one about 2 human rights workers from America/Myanmar taking on multi national company to get compensation for people whose villages had been burned and families killed in the construction of a gas pipeline across the country. Feeling suitably humble for complaining about the toilets and the dirt, and having had enough of suffering for one week I had to go and seek out some comfort food, and spend some money! The food in restaurants is mostly very good and I have had some excellent meals, but everything is hot and spicy and sometimes you just long for something bland.

Quite excited because we received our equipment allowance from VSO; 8000 rupees (about £22) to buy things for our home. I am really looking forward to going shopping for my house, and have been told I will have a house, just not sure what sort of house. My placement officer tells me it will have plastered walls, a roof, no glass in the windows, but hopefully mesh to keep out the mossies, and no shower, although it will have cold running water and electricity. Sounds great.

There is Internet at work so I can keep in touch. The e-mails and messages from everyone at home mean so much and it was great to speak to a couple of friends on the phone this week. I think life is going to be interesting being the only westerner in town. There is no such thing as personal space in India so I expect I will find it difficult to have any privacy. Also need to pretend I am married as it makes things easier!

As it’s our last weekend in Delhi we did the tourist trail. First to the Indira Ghandi museum, which is actually her house and the place of her assassination by 2 of her bodyguards. Very engaging exhibition with short but interesting text panels, material in display cases well laid out, and everything easily accessible to all (oh dear I sound like a museum professional) In the beautiful garden the spot where she was shot is marked by a glass memorial. After that we went to old Delhi – a ramshacked jumble of houses and alleys – and headed for Karims (a very well known café, and in the lonely Planet) where we ate lunch at inflated price. A visit to the Red fort and the large mosque Jama Masjd, left me footsore and worn out so I spent my evening reading in my room. My idea of contentment has definitely changed in the 3 (long) weeks I have been here, Life is full of simple pleasures such as a clean bathroom floor, chocolate, finding a shop that sells bread, and walking in Lodi Gardens (a park near here). But sitting on my bed, in my cell-like room, feeling secure under my mosquito net and wrapped in my blanket reading a book is very high up my list of fun activities, second only to talking to family and friends on the phone.

I made my first visit to an Indian home on Sunday when our teacher invited Ali and I to his home for lunch – which was very nice. Bit strange though as his wife only left the kitchen to wait on us and did not eat with us! Very traditional marriage I think. Our teacher lectures in the History of Buddhism at Delhi University, so interesting afternoon.

We are leaving here tomorrow and off to Ranchi to a national conference. I hope I have not painted too bad a picture of Delhi, it’s dirty and manic but definitely worth visit.

I hope everyone is having fun at Christmas nights out and parties, and getting all the shopping done!

Take care.

Arrived in Agra. What a dump! I thought Delhi was dirty but Agra is worse however it does have the Taj Mahal. There were goats and cows everywhere and some of the goats were wearing clothes and being led around by children – apparently it’s a Muslim holiday tomorrow which involves a goat being sacrificed – maybe they were getting them ready! Agra is much more Muslim than Delhi, sounds of the faithful being called to prayer etc. Our hotel was 2 minutes walk from the Taj so we could be up at 5.30 and first in the queue to see it at sunrise. But first lunch, a walk around Agra and then see the Taj from the other side of the river with the setting sun – stunning, breathtaking all those things Even better close up the next day at sunrise. I think what makes it extra special is the love story behind it, and the fact that he builds something so beautiful in memory of his wife. The decorative designs (flowers etc) on the walls are inlaid with precious stones, which sparkle in the sunlight. And what a contrast to the dirty mess of the rest of Agra, although the Red Fort was pretty good.

Other features of Agra included the most frightening ride to date in a tuk-tuk (3 wheeled taxi) I have been scared in Delhi but nothing compared to this. These small vehicles are basically built for 2 plus driver. In Delhi they never take more than 4 and mostly say no to more than 3. There were 5 of us crammed in and we passed several with 8, plus baby. Once us girls in the back screamed that was the driver’s indication to have some fun!

The other feature of the weekend is that I fell down a hole in the road/pavement, landing on my face on the edge of the kerb and loosing most of one of my front teeth. Scraped knees, bruised hand and wrist, skinned nose and swollen lip. I cannot eat and will have to see a dentist. I was pretty shaken up and needed some comfort so we looked in the lonely planet guide and found Café Days – a western style chain of coffee shops where you can get a good latte.

Our journey back was uneventful. However we got on the wrong train; as it didn’t stop for an hour we spend the first hour wondering where we would end up and if we would have to spend the night somewhere. However it was all ok as the Delhi train came through the station. We didn’t have a seat booked and were in the cheaper end of the train where the smell of spicy food and unwashed bodies (particularly feet) was all pervading – not good if you are prone to travel sickness! As usual in Indian everyone was very kind, moved up and insisted on sharing their seats with us so we got home ok. Cannot believe I am calling it home!

Monday – excellent dentist worked on my tooth for an hour and has managed to put on a temporary crown and I have antibiotics and strong painkillers so all ok. Total cost of treatment was 1500 rupees – about £20. I could have kissed him for saving my smile but shook his hand instead! May require further treatment for which I have to come back to Delhi, or may last until I get home but at those prices I think I will have any further dental work done here.

Namaste

Yes I am actually here despite the lack of photos and not hiding in a warehouse in Partick as has been suggested  ( I will put some pictures up to prove it)  If you missed page 2 its under ‘pages’ down the side called Cleaner Delhi  – cos I posted it in the wrong place.

This language malarkey is getting serious and the pressure to actually remember some words in Oriya is mounting. Bimal (the teacher) has promised a test on Thursday. I have trouble remembering anything from one day to the next let alone what I learnt last week. Fortunately the teacher ignores me most of the time and addresses all his questions and most of his teaching to Alastair, – my fellow student – this is excellent as I can get away with doing very little. I am not sure if its because I am a woman. And this is after all India where women know their place!! Anyway – Mu Oriya kahiparibinahin (I can’t speak Oriya) Must study more!

Things seem to be bit calmer after Mumbai so we are going to Agra to see the Taj Mahal at the weekend; we are taking the train so it should be quite an adventure! Papers are still full of the terrorist attack and we are now getting the politicians all blaming each other, We got a 26 page e mail from VSO concerning security, and there is talk pulling us out of India if the situation on the border with Pakistan gets any worse. But it would have to escalate considerably for that to happen as VSO works in far less stable places than India so not very likely that I will be home for Christmas. Looks like I am here for the year.

The temperate is very pleasant during the day, but it gets cold at night so after class today I went to the market to buy something to keep me warm, as I didn’t bring warm clothes. I bought large hand woven woollen shawl which cost me 350 rupees – I think that is about £4.50. Seems very cheap but I will only be getting paid 9000 rupees so its quite a lot out of my weekly budget! We also get a rent allowance of 700 rupees a month and everyone is telling me I should get a house for that where I am going to be living. I am not getting my hopes up though as I met someone who was given a bed in the office as her accommodation. I will arrive at my placement on 22^nd December just in time to spend Christmas alone, maybe someone will take pity on me and invite me over, but just in case they don’t I am going to buy a bottle of vodka and some chocolates before I leave Delhi. I am not going to see in the New Year without a drink in my hand!

Cricket is the Indian obsession – they play on any piece of ground they can find. The kids who live n our lane and don’t seem to go to school play every morning and on Sunday the men play most of the day. The families who live in the lane have constructed wooden frames and draped plastic sheeting, and odd bits of wood over the top to make hut. The women gather around the fire to cook and I think everyone just sleeps on the ground. Its such a busy, noisy place people park their cars during the day but no one bothers about them, and at night it gets even more noisy with chattering people. Most of the day the women, girls and older men sitting on the ground making flower garland, to sell to people going to the temple, as offerings for the gods. The smell of the flowers kind of hides the smell of everything else. Much prized possessions for the kids seem to be wooden spinning tops and bits of wood, which they can use as a cricket bats or just generally show off with. There are several mangey looking dogs in the lane that we always give a very wide berth to, one has 2 very cute puppies, which the children also play with – dread to think what they catch from them! Whenever you go out the kids always shout ‘Hello’ and smile and wave, and some of the smaller ones are so sweet you just want to take care of them.

Life here is improving – or am I just getting used to it?

I have been out alone several times and not only did I come back in one piece but I actually enjoyed my walk. The people here are so friendly and if they speak English they strike up a conversation with you, many have family in the UK or in Australia and they are very keen to tell you all about them and their success – where they live, what they do etc – it’s good. I wonder if we are as friendly to incomers.

Last week we went to the market. A sight to behold – very crowded, very colourful, everything from veg to silks and mobile phones –  but you have to barter which I am not very good at. I bought some oranges – missing my 5 a day – and some silk scarfs – very cheap! I don’t want to buy too much as I will have to carry in half way across India by train when I go to my placement.

One of the strange things about this country is that they have kept all the bureaucracy from the days of the British and added and developed it, almost to an art-form.  There is a piece of paper or a form to be completed for everything, end everything takes forever.

My weekend was good.Saturday was more or less confined to barracks but on Sunday I was collected by car by (Sue and Bill’s American friends) Sandy and Ken and taken to church. The church serves expats and I think virtually every county in the world was represented in the congregation. Sandie introduced me to the Vice President of Group 4 (India) who is Burmese (i.e from Myanmar. ) If ever I feel insecure I have to phone him – he will regret that as I feel insecure a lot and maybe calling every day would be a bit OTT. I told him that Group 4 provide our security at lenziemill he seemed impressed!  I have also been offered a place to stay next time I am in Delhi by a lovely lady from Staffordshire. After church we went to the American club for lunch (what a treat to eat pasta and not rice ) and then a drive around Delhi. I saw a totally different Delhi – wide tree lined boulevards, beautiful building and tourists! What a contrast to where I am living in the back lane with the families under their tarpaulin shelters and the open sewer. Sandie says she cannot go out alone, they have armed guards at their gate and she misses her independence, and her solitude. So its never perfect!

The other thing I have done this weekend is to stop whingeing about the dirt and do something about it. On one of my forays down the road I bought bleach and a cloth. I borrowed someones scrubbing brush and cleaned my bathroom from top to bottom until it gleams in the sun light. The only drawback is that I now feel as if I living in a swimming pool. I defy any cockroach to cross my threshold and it has the added advantage that I can walk barefooted in the bathroom now. I can’t understand why I didn’t think of it before!  One thing I have learnt in this very long week is that I do tend to just accept things the way they are and sometimes you can actually change them.

I will add some photos to this if I ever work out how to do it!

I hope everyone back there is ok and looking forward to Christmas. Please post a message or drop me an e mail.

Take care!